By Alain Neyman

       His informative Parisian restaurant site can be found at: 
                                 http://www.lesrestos.com

Many wonderful things are happening in Paris;

GAYA PAR PIERRE GAGNAIRE

The modest desires of GAYA’s Pierre Gagnaire are clearly stated.  He claims the right of doing ‘small cooking’ differently, come what may!  And opening his kitchen to everyone, so it can be frequented by the ‘people’; bravo!  The great chef’s works are well presented to the well informed clientele.  Those having the godsend of this knowledge are filling GAYA’s two small dining rooms, which were decorated by Christian Ghion, noon and evenings.  The owner is truly a star.  For his part, Pierre Gagnaire makes his wonderfully Parisian dining more easily accessible than at those remarkable, magnificent, but very expensive restaurants that are among the ‘galaxies of stars’!  One can go to GAYA for pleasure and for the emotion without the risk of being intimidated.

Daily special for 23 €, à la carte from 30 to 70 €.  Open every day except Sunday.

GAYA – 44, Rue du Bac – 75007 Paris – Tel: 01 45 44 73 73

POURCEL - SENS PAR LA COMPAGNIE DES COMPTOIRS

Jacques and Laurent Pourcel, the ‘Michelin double stared’ twins, who have created restaurants around the world, have opened their own Parisian restaurant, SENS, near the Champs-Élysées.  Thierry Alix and Christophe Fluck have caused us to discover Chestnut and escalope soup, thickly sliced tuna braised as one would a cut of beef, roasted lamb served in little pancakes and for dessert, warm Cappuccino and ice-cream ‘from the counting machine company’.  The restaurant’s dinning room, where gray is omnipresent, is spacious and the gray leather stuffed chairs and sofas are comfortable.  There is a deep matching rug and through the window the light is peaceful during the day and quite a bit more muffled in the evening.  On the main floor, there is the cocktail bar plus a private lounge holding two to eight people.  Down stairs, a very select Néo Club [night club].

A fixed lunch for 18 €, à la carte from 20 to 64 €.  Open every day except Saturday noon and Sunday.

SENS PAR LA COMPAGNIE DES COMPTOIRS

23, Rue de Ponthieu – 75008 Paris – Tel: 01 42 25 95 00

LE PERGOLÈSE DE GABORIAU

The Chef arrives from Lyon with one star, dedicated to conquering Paris.  He is well capable of doing so; Stéphane Gaboriau is the following act to Albert Corre within the walls of the PERGOLÈSE where the relaxed and food loving clientele traditionally come to deal with serious affaires around a good dinner table.  The décor is permanently middleclass and well to do, and the contribution of bronze by the new owner enhances the taste of the diners.  The cuisine is respectful of quality ingredients and one finds the mark of the new owner represented by the pairing of foie gras meatloaf with duck drumsticks, young farm-raised guinea-fowl supreme with a clafoutis made of red plumb and Fromage blanc.  Here’s a chef with the promise of honors that should be carefully followed.

Menus from 38 to 80 €, à la carte from 48 to 84 €.  Open everyday except Saturday and Sunday. 

GABORIAU – LE PERGOLESE – 40, Rue Pergolèse – 75016 Paris.  Tel : 01 45 00 21 40

BENOIT PAR ALAIN DUCASSE

Mended by the hands of Alain Ducasse and handed down to Michel Petit with a plan for a new life, this chic bistro is symbolic of a [complacent] style.  BENOIT is true to its reputation for not ever boring its longtime international clientele.  The menu is a bit short, Corsican wines do appear, but the rest is unchanging, beginning with the wonderful décor.  In effect, so much the better, since it is good like that and one likes this place which has its anchor deep in the respect for traditions that are lively and active.  Nor, does one miss the chance to choose the gelatined ox tail, the house’s white bean casserole or the crêpes Suzette au Grand-Marnier.  Thanks Chef!

Lunch menu for 38 €; à la carte from 41 to 80 €.  Open every day.

BENOIT – 20, Rue Saint-Martin – 75004 Paris – Tel: 01 42 72 25 76

CHEZ LY

Good recipes have been handed down to generations of the Ly family’s sons.  Quoc Lan Ly and his spouse Sy Chit Ly just opened their third Parisian restaurant, CHEZ LY, in the heart of the 17^th arrondisement, in a elegant and comfortable setting where the spicy Chinese, Thailand and Cambodian flavors encounter an astonishing sake foie gras encrusted with Lotus hearts wrapped in blue poppy seeds, created exclusively by Jean Legrand.  One has been treated to a delicious meal of steamed raviolis, sole au caramel, Cantonese duck lacquered Hong-Kong style, shrimp in a piquant sauce and mango salad – the tastiest in Paris.  You are warmly received, the service is in accord with that of the finest – the clientele is not rushed – and the cozy and chic ambiance causes the dinner to linger.  This great address is worthy of a food lover’s visit.

Lunch menu at 15 €; à la carte from 15 to 45 €.  Open every day.

CHEZ LY – 95, Avenue Niel – 75017 Paris – Tel: 01 40 43 88 38

MAXAN

MAXAN’s contemporary, luminous and chic décor indicates innovative and solid dinning; the replacement of La Poêle d’Or has already made a dining experience that marks the beginning.  The Chef-owner, Laurent Jazac, who worked under Gérard Vié, the Michelin stared Chef of the Trois Marches, has arrived to seduce Paris. Charm is operative in the beautiful seafood creations: crumbled crab in a gazpacho of almond milk or the filet of red mullet baked in a slow-combustion stove with garlic custard poêlé sont extra; for dessert, raspberry macaroons is a delicacy.  Under the efficient direction of Serge Conquet, the service has become very friendly.

Menus for 30 and 38 €; à la carte from 32 to 60 €.  Open everyday except Saturday noon, Sunday and Monday evening.

MAXAN – 37, Rue de Miromesnil – 75008 Paris – Tel: 01 42 65 78 60

LE PETIT CHAMPENOIS

A small street houses LE PETIT CHAMPENOIS, a very Parisian bistro where traditional French cuisine is served on generous sized plates, is in the spotlight.  The wine lists suggest some beautiful little bottles and also some gray glasses.  In the kitchen, Vincent treats us to a pan of forest mushrooms, Parmentier of duck, the house casserole of white beans with 4 comfits, a plate of fish à l’aïoli and a dessert to split, a variation autour du chocolat.  All this is served with a smile and good humor in a warm and hospitable atmosphere, just like home.  An address to find your friends noon and evening.

Lunch menu to 15 €, evenings to 18 €.  Open every day except Saturday noon and Sunday.

LE PETIT CHAMPENOIS – 6, Rue Fourcade – 75015 Paris – Tel: 01 48 28 67 93

MISS BETSY

Change is appreciated in this tranquil section with the arrival of MISS BETSY and its bistro for food lovers where the vegetable treatment is remarkable.  I have just discovered the jumble of crunchy vegetables, the celery and carrots remoulade, vegetable lasagna or roasted sardines with a vegetable fricassee.  For desert, one can be seduced by the strawberry Parfait and the citrus fruit cheese cake.  The young owners, Emmanuelle and Jean-Thomas have found the perfect tone for a convivial, elegant and relaxed ambiance among the anise colored walls, the marble from an old butcher shop and the wooden parquet.  The reasonable prices and the excellent wine selections make it an indispensable address.

Lunches between 12 and 25 €, 25 to 33 € in the evening.  Open every day except Saturday and Sunday.

MISS BETSY – 23, Rue Guillaume-Tell – 75017 Paris – Tel: 01 42 67 12 67

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